Gorgeous, breathtaking, moving and complete awe for this beautiful planet we live on gives you a sense of what we felt as we walked along the coast of Spain’s Costa Brava. We are heading out for another hike today, but wanted to share a few photos of yesterdays tour. Hard to capture it’s true beauty. Reminded me of parts of California’s coastline, which we will be back to soon! Again feeling very lucky!
When we just really needed some warm weather and sunshine we found it in Mallorca. This incredible island off the coast of Spain, a quick 30 minute flight from Barcelona, is a very special place. It is part of the Balearic Islands which also includes, Ibiza, Menorca and Formentera. It is the home of Rafa Nadal and Carlos Moya, both who have been #1 in men’s tennis. We were so lucky to have warm weather and even a touch of spring. The almond trees were just beginning to bloom and we found fields covered in white and yellow flowers, so nice to see, as it has been a long cold winter. For those of us from Southern California, any winter is a long cold winter, and we have had our share of snow and cold this year traveling through Europe, so this warming trend was very much appreciated.
During the busy summer season, tourists can outnumber the locals 15 to 1. There are lots of German and English visitors, and many have bought second homes on the island. One of the really nice things about us traveling during the winter is that we are in such an off season, that there are no lines and the beaches are almost deserted but it is also a little chilly. It was nice to have the island to ourselves, but many of the restaurants are closed or have shorter hours. We ended up just grabbing some fruit, baguettes and cheeses and headed to the beach, we made the most of it…
We played tennis, went swimming, hiking, enjoyed the beautiful beaches, explored caves, did some wine tasting (Mallorca has several types of grapes only grown on the island) and we had some really nice meals. It was wonderful and we did not feel like leaving but we did.
Heading westward in southern France towards the end of our incredible European adventure has me thinking upon a few things. Our travels have taken us 13,000 kilometers and we have stayed in 17 different places, including, apartments, villas, homes and hotel rooms. By the time our trip ends, in Lisbon, Portugal, we will have stayed in 24 places and have traveled close to 20,000 kilometers (12,000 miles). My kind husband is becoming quite tired of loading and unloading the car (34 times so far and this does not count our trip in California before we left for Europe along with packing up our whole house into storage). Sometimes we are parked close to where we are staying and it is easy, but other times we have hauled our bags down the side of a mountain, through busy city streets, and up several long flights of stairs. I have to say that this packing and unpacking is the worst part, even though, at times, we are ready to try our next location, it can get pretty tiresome. We have all become professional packers though, and I really am proud of how little the girls complain as they resign themselves to the task at hand.
With staying in so many different places we have had to get use to lots of different kitchens and lots of different beds. I do appreciate nice cooking utensils and appliances, it really makes a difference. We have learned a lot of what works and what doesn’t for vacation rentals…
We will have gone to the supermarket in 10 different countries. The most unusual market so far has to be in Prague. We have had to really rely at times on the pretty pictures on the packaging in order to have the slightest idea of what might be inside.
One of the most useful tools we have used is the translation app on my iPad this has come in handy when having to read cooking instructions in Czech… Also, a very handy app, has been the conversion app on our iPhone. Whether being used for temperature (cooking or weather) distances, weights or currency, it has been very helpful. We have used the Euro, the British Pound (GBP), the Czech Koruna (CZK), and the Swiss Franc (CHF). Hopefully helping our girls to build good math skills in the meantime.
The most memorable gift from our travels, along with all the incredible places we have seen, the time we have spent together as a family, and the food, has to be the wonderful people we have met. We have met lovely people all over Europe. It really has helped to make our experience so special. With the language barrier being very tough as times, these connections with people have helped us so much to enjoy and understand the places that we have been. It gives me such faith in humanity…there are good people everywhere!
Well, I must sign off as we have to go and pack…
It had been a very very long time since I had been to Rome. I was excited to explore this ancient city and experience the warmth of the friendly Italians. So much of our human culture began in Rome and it is impossible not be moved by the connection to this history. There is a lot that was brought from the sophisticated Greek Empire that came 500 years before, which is just mind boggling really! But the Romans, in true fashion created a vast empire which survived for 1,000 years. We have seen reminders of this vast empire throughout Europe. The first half of the empire began with a republic government ruled by elected officials and then in the middle period of the empire, the Caesars took over as dictators, which eventually brought the end of the Roman Empire, something to examine for sure. It is always better to have a democracy!
To first see the Coliseum from afar and slowly walk up to it is a dramatic experience, for sure. The Coliseum has such emotion to it. When it opened in 80 A.D., it had a total of 4 stories, which is only partially seen today. It is said that the Romans invented concrete and bricks. There is extensive use of brick which is clearly visible throughout the Coliseum. At the time the Coliseum was used, it was covered in marble. For our children, learning about the gladiators really brought that history to life. Imagine yourself as a gladiator walking into the Coliseum with 50,000 spectators excitedly waiting for your gruesome death, what fun they all had, quite the show! I guess it was important to make clear the power that Roman Empire had over just about anything, man and beast. Barbaric, yes, but they had something to prove.
We spent several days in Rome strolling among the ruins. We were excitedly joined by my husband’s mother who added so much to our experience! In addition to exploring the Coliseum, we visited the Forum, the Pantheon, the Spanish Steps, the Trevi Fountain and the incredible Galleria Borghese. Rome is such a vibrant city but it still is a city and we ended up having one of our tires slashed in a not so safe parking area. We luckily found a nice man to help us, but we heard it could have been a lot worse. Anyway, as much as we loved Rome, when it was time to leave, we happily headed off into the sunset, towards Lucca.
We have been in Italy now for just over one month and have had approximately 30 pizzas…we are close to averaging a pizza a day! Food here is definitely the “dolce vita” with the fresh pasta, wine, bread, prosciutto and cheeses, can I just say I am in heaven! Here is a quick update to our whereabouts in the last month.
We first went here:
Next we went here:
We picked up my mother-in-law here:
We were so very excited to see her!
We all loved it here:
The incredible ancient city of Rome!
And now we are here:
In the breathtaking Tuscan countryside close to Lucca.
Hope this finds you all happy and healthy and ready for the best year of your life! Cheers to all!
We first noticed this devil like creature when we were in Vienna. Next to all the Christmas decorations was this strange little fella with horns, and I thought to myself that I needed to check into what this creature might be. Maybe it was left over from Halloween, but realized Halloween is not a big holiday here, as of yet, although it is gaining in popularity. I never had a chance to look into it while we were in Vienna. So when we arrived in Salzburg, and our lovely hosts at the apartment where we were staying, suggested that we go to a festival featuring this creature in a neighboring village the next evening, we jumped at the chance. Take a look at what we found…
Krampus! They were quite a spectacle! I have never seen anything like it. The tradition goes something like this. On December 6th, St. Nicholas (who is similar to Santa Claus) and Krampus come for a visit. Children are left apples, nuts and sweets if they are good and are dragged away by Krampus to his hellish lair if they are not. So you better be good!
There are many festivals and parades called Krampuslauf, leading up to Krampusnacht, celebrated on December 6th. They usually begin at night fall and large groups, mostly young men, dress in their incredible costumes and prance down the street, stealing hats and scaring people along the way. We found ourselves at the Koppler Krampuslauf, on a snowy cold night. It was a perfect time to enjoy some delicious hot punch and the girls had the kinder punch (non-alcoholic) to keep them warm. Once the parade started we were close to the action, as it went on we moved back a little, my youngest daughter got a little scared of these beasts. She knew it was all in fun, but their costumes and actions can be pretty scary! They were amazing! To learn about and be a part of this tradition dating back to the middle ages and earlier, was an incredible treat!
- Krampus (baldheretic.com)
Austria is amazing! It has certainly left an impression on me. Currently, we are in lovely Salzburg. It is dumping snow outside and so the girls are out running around with their dad, perfect time to blog. Fresh snow falling is definitely something we do not have many chances to see, living in Southern California, so everyone has been squealing with excitement! It is a winter wonderland!
Anyway, back to Vienna. What a beautiful city Vienna is! There is a style and grace to the city that reminded me of Paris. I am so glad we made Vienna a stop on our European tour.
On our first full day in Vienna, we surprised the girls with a performance by the Spanish Riding School and their Lipizzaner stallions. The riding school began over 430 years ago and is very much a cultural tradition in Vienna. The Spanish Riding School’s name comes from the Lipizzaner horses, which originated from the Iberian Peninsula, present day Spain and Portugal. There were several different events showing classical horsemanship culminating with a beautiful “ballet” of 8 white horses. It was fascinating to see these incredibly trained horses jumping and prancing to the music, like nothing I have seen before. The girls were very excited! The beautiful space where the performance was held was completed in 1735 and is part of the Hofburg Palace.
One of our favorite ways to relax and observe the Viennese culture was to sit in the wonderful cafes and enjoy the incredible coffee and sweets. I have to say these are the original coffee houses and put Starbucks to shame. One sweet you can indulge on is the Sachertorte, who has the best Sachertorte in the city is a big debate. The Sachertorte is a a soft and fluffy chocolate cake with apricot jam. The one we tried was pretty dry but I am willing to try it again, if I must. My daughters have become hot chocolate connoisseurs and my husband is on a quest to try every type of beer that is humanly possible.
After relaxing in a cafe we enjoyed viewing Gustav Klimt’s work at the Belvedere Palace which was the summer palace of Prince Eugene of Savoy. There are actually two Baroque-style palaces separated by a formal garden. Gustav Klimt’s work is in the upper palace with a collection of work by other Austrian painters. I was really taken by Klimt’s work, with his use of mixed media and different artistic styles it was incredible. The whole city of Vienna seems to be taken by his work too as he is a huge part of the culture of the city.
We also were able to see an opera and a ballet at the gorgeous State Opera House or the Staatsoper. Having heard about the possibility of having standing room seats for 3-4 euros each, from a Rick Steve’s podcast, we decided what a great way to go. Not being an opera fan and wanting to just give a little exposure to our girls, you cannot beat it. We figured we could just stay until intermission and not feel bad for leaving. It is an interesting process getting the standing room seats, so if you can handle that, it is a wonderful deal. Some people line up three hours before the tickets go on sale to be the first in line. You can also arrive when the tickets do go on sale, 80 minutes before showtime. We opted for the latter and with the kids we were lucky enough to get in the front row. There can be a lot of pushing and shoving for position. We even saw people running in to get a good spot, it reminded me of a rock concert, not an opera… The 4 euro standing room area is just behind seats costing up to 150 euros, and are on the ground floor with a great view. The amazing thing was though, that we stayed for the entire performance of both the opera and the ballet. The girls loved it! I think it helped that the opera was L’elisir d’armore (The Elixir of Love) which is not so serious nor tragic. The ballet was interesting also. I think we have a whole new appreciation for the arts. I really love how Vienna makes the arts accessible to everyone in the community, not just those with big bank accounts.
Traveling in the winter has allowed us to see how other countries celebrate the Christmas holiday. One of these very special traditions, are the Christmas Markets, and Vienna has some of the best. They are quite a spectacle. Christmas Markets are called Christkindlmarkt or Adventmarkt and have been a part of the Christmas tradition since the Middle Ages in German speaking countries. They are open air markets filled with seasonal goods and food. We found different markets all over the city. You can find Christmas decorations, ornaments, nutcrackers, gingerbread cookies, and handmade crafts, just to begin with. There are food vendors serving different types of wurst, potato patties and roasted chestnuts. You can also try the hot wine (Gluhwein) hot punch (Punsch), and for the kids a warm punch (Kinder Punsch). Delicious on a cold day!
We truly enjoyed our week in Vienna. It is an incredible city! I will never forget our special time there and can’t wait to go back!
I have to be honest and say Prague was not my favorite city. I did not connect to it like I was hoping. We were really looking forward to seeing this city that we had heard so many great things about, so we were quite disappointed and had one of the toughest weeks of our journey so far. It is inevitable that this would happen and so we persevered and kept on. I think a lot of lessons were learned this week. Maybe it was just the timing that was off, as it was cold and grey outside or possibly our experiences with not so friendly locals, filthy streets and smoke-filled restaurants and cafes or maybe just even the apartment we rented which was dirty, missing essential items and had mostly chipped and broken dishes. I think it was a combination of it all that just left us with an unfavorable impression. I will not let this one time experience completely dismay me from ever returning though, as I imagine another experience might be totally different. Although, I am not sure I would recommend Prague for families, as it is not the most kid-friendly town with it’s Las Vegas touches, in the casinos and “girls” and there is just not a lot for kids to do there.
The Old Town is wonderful architecturally but the tacky tourist shops are one too many. It is the architecture of the city though, that was my absolute favorite part and makes me want to return under different circumstances. The city was virtually untouched during the World Wars and so it’s architectural history spans 1,100 years. You can see Romanesque churches, along with Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Neo-Classical and Art Nouveau designed buildings. There are also many buildings that were built during the communist rule (Functionalism) which is such a contrast to the other architectural styles, it is very interesting. The city is truly a museum of architectural history.
There are wonderful places to hear classical music, affordable nice restaurants and really really affordable beer. Incredibly the beer was always the cheapest item on our bill, my daughters’ hot chocolates were more expensive!
I do hope that I can return and give Prague another try one day, preferably without kids and on a warm sunny day where the Vltava River might glisten in the sun with the Charles Bridge in the background, ahhhh! That I would like!
It was suggested that when traveling with kids, a good idea might be to give them full reign for a day (or two or three). We decided while we were in Paris, this would be a great place to do it. There is so much to see and why not change up what we normally would have put on the agenda and let the kids be in charge for a change. Good for them to have the responsibility to figure out what interests them about the city, where to find it on a map and to plan out the day.
First up was our youngest daughter and her day went a little like this:
1. Musee Rodin
2. Walk down the Champs Eysees and Avenue Montaigne for some window shopping. Or as they say in France, “faire du leche-vitrines” which literally translated means window licking, although we only drooled a little…
3. Stopped for a sweet crepe.
4. The Eiffel Tower at dusk!
Next, it was my oldest daughter’s turn to be princess for the day. She chose another amazing adventure and it went something like this:
1. Jardin du Luxembourg
2. A special French lunch
3. A visit to the English bookstore Shakespeare & Co. (it was just across from Notre Dame so we stopped in there also).
4. The Sorbonne
I cannot wait to see where they pick to go next!
There is something for everyone at the Tower of London. History, drama, trickery, weapons, torture, death, royalty and lots and lots of diamonds. Since we did not arrive until the afternoon we ran out of time to see the “rack” which my husband was tortured by missing (pun intended, sorry…).
We took the walking tour with a Beefeater, who is also known as, the Yeomen Warders of Her Majesty’s Royal Palace and Fortress the Tower of London, and Members of the Sovereign’s Body Guard of the Yeoman Guard Extraordinary (what a name…I would go with Beefeater too!). He showed us around the incredible grounds of the Tower and then we headed inside to see the Crown Jewels. There are over 11 tons of gold and some of the largest diamonds in the world, absolutely stunning! We viewed Queen Elizabeth II’s crown, which she will wear for the State Opening of Parliament in early November.
On our way out, my husband and daughter met the first female Beefeater and then a gentleman who worked at the Tower and he gave my daughters a special pin from a recent opening of an exhibition at the Tower. The same pins had been given to some of the members of the Royal Family when they attended the opening. We felt very lucky! He then brought us up to a private area in the Middle Tower, which is where his office was located. We were able to climb to the top of the Tower and had an amazing view of Tower Bridge. He told us about meeting some of the Royal Family and his experience as an expert on Admiral Lord Nelson, the infamous royal naval hero. It was quite an exciting afternoon! One we will always remember!